HOW TO GET VOLUME IN FINE, FLAT
HAIR

A barber explains why more product makes flat hair worse, and the dry method that actually builds lift without weighing hair down.

A bottle of Samson's Volumizing Matte Powder on a barbershop counter
A bottle of Samson's Volumizing Matte Powder on a barbershop counter

"Nothing gives my hair body or hold." That is the single most common thing guys tell us on the Find Your Formula quiz. Ahead of greasy, ahead of dries my hair out, ahead of everything else.

Fine or flat hair is 45% of everyone who takes that quiz. It is the largest group we have, and until now we have not written a straight answer for it. So here it is.

Why more product makes fine hair flatter

Almost every guy who tells us his hair goes flat has already tried three or four products on it. More clay. A heavier paste. Something that promised more.

Adam's read on why that backfires is the whole article in one sentence.

"Anything wet is going to cause the hair to clump and that's going to look like you have less coverage."

Every clay, cream, and gel on a shelf starts wet. It has to dry down before it holds anything, and while it is drying it is pulling strands together instead of holding them apart. Fine hair has more individual strands each doing less work, so wet product costs it more than it costs thick hair.

Wet styling product clumping fine hair into flat, separated sections

The barber's method for volume in fine hair

Adam is direct about who the powder is for.

"If it's somebody with thinning hair that wants to look fuller, that's an obvious answer. It's for somebody younger that wants something quick, and they can go through their day and they're not really feeling the product in their hair all day."

The Volumizing Matte Powder skips the wet step. It is clays, powders, and a starch with no water added at all.

Hair has to be dry. Flip the bottle upside down, aim at the roots, two puffs, maybe three. Then tousle it in to spread it before you style.

The reason it builds structure rather than just sitting there is the micro silicas, the same ones used in concrete. That is what gives the hair something to stand on. Adam's own summary: "We didn't put any water in ours, so there's no wasted weight."

Working dry volumizing powder into the roots with the fingertips

What to expect when you switch to powder

"Your hair will feel a little bit drier, but it will feel like you have nothing in it."

That is the trade. No product weight sitting on your hair, but real lift at the roots. It takes shine away rather than adding any.

It is also dose dependent. Two puffs is a starting point, not a rule. Go light on the first pass, because it is easy to add and annoying to take away. If you can clearly see white powder sitting on your hair, you have used too much.

Already using something else? The powder goes on last, at the roots, once your hair is dry. Layer it over the Dead Sea Clay when you want all day matte hold underneath, or over the Matte Styling Cream for a lighter foundation. Adam calls the combination "great to cocktail."

Natural lift and volume at the roots of fine hair after using matte powder

Quick answers

Does volumizing powder cause thinning?

No. The powder sits on the hair strand to create lift and rinses out at your next wash. It has nothing to do with what is happening at the follicle. If you are seeing an actual change in density over time, that is outside anything a styling product controls, powder included, and it is worth a conversation with a doctor rather than a guess from a product label.

How much powder should I use?

Two puffs, maybe three, aimed at the roots on dry hair, then tousle it in. Go light on the first pass. If you can clearly see white powder sitting on your hair, you have used too much. Full usage steps are on the Volumizing Matte Powder page.

Can I use the powder with a clay or a cream?

Yes. The powder goes on last, at the roots, once your hair is dry. Layer it over the Dead Sea Clay when you want all day matte hold underneath, or over the Matte Styling Cream when you want a lighter foundation.

Should I use powder or clay?

If your hair is fine and it goes flat by the afternoon, go with the powder. If your hair is thick or coarse and you are reapplying by mid day, go with the clay. We broke the whole lineup down by hair type in Matching Product to Hair Type, and the quiz asks the same questions Adam would ask in the chair.

Does volumizing powder wash out?

Yes, with your next wash. 62% of the guys who take our quiz wash their hair every day, which is exactly what the Midwest Daily Use Shampoo is formulated for. It takes the product out without being harsh on your scalp.

How long does a bottle last?

About a month for most guys using it five to seven days a week. A month and a half if you travel a lot or spend most days in a hat.

Close-up of dry clay-grey volumizing powder on a fingertip

Find your own answer

If you already know your hair goes flat by the afternoon, you do not have to guess anymore.

If you are not sure whether your hair is fine, thick, or somewhere in between, take 30 seconds and get matched instead of picking off a shelf. That is the same call Adam makes in his chair: if he is not sure, he asks more questions before he hands you a jar.

A man with natural, lifted, textured hair in warm barbershop light

About the author

Jake Hamlet is a barber and co-founder of Samson's Haircare. He and Adam Muncy have been cutting hair in Kalamazoo, Michigan since 2016, and the two of them still make every product by hand, in small batches, in the same town.

Samson's started because they got tired of selling their clients products they didn't believe in. Everything on the shelf either held your hair or was good for your hair, never both. So they made their own.

Questions about your specific hair? Reply to any of our emails. Jake or Adam will answer. Not a bot. A barber.

The primary door
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